This type of applique is done without benefit of paper or pre-basting the edges. It is called needle-under, because it is done by turning under the edges to a marked line with the side of the needle or toothpick.
Marking the motif fabric:
The markings must be on the right side of the fabric, so always use a .05 pencil with soft lead or a water soluble pen. On dark fabrics mark with a white or silver pencil. A fine tip white pen made by Clover, should be available at your quilt shop. You can also use a white china marker, which should be available at stationery stores. Sharpen the tip with an eyebrow pencil sharpener.
Basting the motif:
Baste the motif to the base fabric 1/4" in from the markings. If it is larger than 3", it is also a good idea to baste across the center in both directions. Make sure the motif fabric lays smoothly against the background. If it is well basted, it becomes one with the background fabric.
Stitching the motif:
1. Turn the seam allowance under, so the marked line will not show, holding it in place with the thumb and forefinger. Use the Applique or Hidden Stitch.
2. Do not start stitching at a point or indentation. Come up through the fold.
3. The seam allowance is turned under as you stitch, swept under the motif with the side of the needle or toothpick.
4. When you are fnished stitching around the motif, remove the basting stitches.
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Perfect Points
This technique is used with either the Needle-Under or the Freezer Paper Techniques.
1. Do not miter. Trim straight across the point, leaving 1/8" seam allowance, from the point or line.
2. Trim, leaving 1/8" seam allowance on both sides of the point.
3. The seam allowance is turned under as you stitch with the Applique or Hidden Stitch. At the point take an extra tiny stitch. This emphasizes the point. With the side of the needle or a dampened toothpick, sweep seam allowance under the point of the motif.
4. Continue stitching.
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Freezer Paper or English Paper Piecing
Freezer paper is usually available in the supermarket, in the same aisle as plastic wrap and aluminum foil. Some quilt shops carry one with a grid. The paper has a thin plastic backing that melts when ironed, sticking to the fabric. Cutting motifs from it and ironing to the fabric gives support to the fabric and creates a tiny edge, making it easier to applique.If Freezer Paper is unavailable, bond or letter paper can be used instead. When using plain paper the technique is called English Paper Piecing. Cut the motifs from the plain paper, baste it to the wrong side of the fabric motif, to prevent slippage. Continue with the steps below for the Freezer Paper.
Cutting the motif:
1. Trace motifs onto the paper side of the freezer paper. If the motif is directional, for instance a letter, reverse it, so it is backwards before tracing.
2. For repeat motifs, fold the paper slightly larger than the motif, no more than eight layers; depending on the sharpness of the scissors. Trace one on the top layer. Staple the layers together inside the motif. Cut all layers at once. If the motif is directional, cut the paper roughly to the desired size, then stack the pieces paper side up. Staple.
3. Iron the slick side of the freezer paper to the wrong side of the fabric. Leave at least a 1/2" between the motifs to allow adequate seam allowance around each piece. The edge of the freezer paper is the stitching line. Leave at least a 1/4" seam allowance around the edge of the paper when cutting the fabric.
Preparing the Motif with Basting:
1. 
Hold the motif with paper face up. Snip indentations or inner points "V's" in the fabric to the edge of the paper. Turn the seam allowance over the edge of the paper and baste.
2. Along the curves smooth the fabric over the edge of the paper to avoid little bumps. Use the point of the needle or a finger nail to pull the fabric over the edge of the paper to smooth these out.
3. Inner curves or concave edges have to be clipped, so they will lay over the paper smoothly. Do not clip all the way to the edge of the paper. Make several clips along the edge of the fabric, just enough so that the fabric will lay over the edge of the paper.
4. If there are long unwieldy points when you are making a leaf that is narrow, trim the end of it 1/8" from the point of the paper. Trim the seam allowance, leaving 1/8" seam allowance about 1" from the point on both sides.
5. At the indentations or "V" where there is no fabric at the bottom of the "V", just baste through the paper and continue on.
6. 
At the point of a motif, continue basting the seam allowance to the edge of the fabric, stop with the thread on the fabric side.
7. Fold the seam allowance over, bring the needle through the seam allowance. Continue basting down the other side. There will be some fabric sticking out to the side of the point, that is how it should look.
Stitching the Basted Freezer Paper Motif:
1. Thread baste the motifs in place or use 1" safety pins to hold the motifs in place Use two or more pins depending on the size of the motif.
2. Do not start stitching at a point or "V".
3. Start at an area that is as straight as possible. Using the Applique Stitch, stitch around the motif, stopping about 3/4" from the first stitch.
4. Do not end or cut the thread. Put the needle to the side. Remove all basting stitches from the motif.
5. Slip tweezers between the paper and the motif fabric, so that the paper can be removed. Pull out the paper with the tweezers.
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The applique or hidden stitch stitch is used with both the Freezer Paper and Needle-Turn techniques. Preparation of the motifs (petals, leaves, stems, flower centers, etc.) for either technique is required before starting to stitch.
1. Pull the thread off the side of the spool, so the spool turns. Pulling the thread off the end of the spool twists the thread. Thread the needle with the end that comes off the spool. Do not double the thread. Cut the thread at about 12" (30cm). Longer threads twist and tangle as you stitch.
2. Knot the single cut end.
3. Bring the needle through the back of the base fabric and through the fold of the motif. Pull the thread through.
4. 
Place the point of the needle below the place where the thread comes out and slightly under the edge of the fold. (arrow)
5. Go through the base fabric less than an 1/8". Come back up through the edge of the fold with the point of the needle. This is accomplished with a slight rocking motion of the hand.
6. Pull the thread through, until it is taut. Pull enough so the stitch is buried in the fold, but not enough to pucker the motif fabric. This is the first stitch.
NOTE: The stitches show in the illustration to indicate that they are straight. On the back of the base fabric the stitches will be at a slight angle parallel to the edge of the motif. Your actual stitches should not show along the folded edge of the motif.
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Stems
There are different ways to make stems, but the first one is the easiest. There is a limit on how narrow the stem can be made, because of the four layers of fabric that end up in the stem. The sizes of the straight cut strip and bias strip are indicated in the pattern. When drawing the sewing line for a stem, draw only the concave line, when possible. If it is an undulating line, pick one! I usually try to indicate it in the pattern.
Parallel lines are not needed and it is usually difficult to draw two perfectly parallel lines. If it is drawn incorrectly, it is hard to cover, then it has to be removed, etc. You will find with my sewing technique, the one line is enough for a guide.
Since most stems have curves, the stem fabric must be cut on the bias.
Stem #1
1. From the stem fabric, cut the indicated size bias strip across the widest part of the fabric. Lay the 45° line on the ruler along one edge of the fabric, to cut off one corner. Now move the ruler over to cut the needed size strip. Cut as many bias strips as indicated in the pattern.
2. Fold the strips in half, lengthwise, wrong sides together. Press, avoid distorting the fabric. Align the fold of the stem fabric with the marked line. Basting the stem in place, is preferable to pinning, especially if it is more than a couple inches.
3. Applique the fold, with matching thread, using the Applique or Hidden Stitch, following the traced line.
4. On the opposite side, tuck under the raw edges, appliqueing the new fold in place. The ends of the strips are usually hidden under the motifs. If you tuck in the raw edges, so they touch the previously stitched fold, the stem should be even in width.
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Stem #2
This technique works well for long vines and also for short pieces that are basted in place, but not appliqued immediately because other parts are going to be tucked underneath.
1. Fold bias in half, wrong sides together and raw edges matching.
2. Machine stitch 1/8" seam from the raw edges, the length of the stem fabric.
3. Finger press the tube, so the seam is on the bottom. Pressing with the iron, seems to take some of the stretch out of the bias.
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Stem #3
This method makes turned tubes from bias strips.
1. Cut bias strips as you would for the technique above, cutting strips the size called for in the block instructions.
2. Fold the strips in half, lengthwise, right sides together. With a short stitch, on the sewing machine, sew a scant 1/4" seam from the raw edges.
3. Turn the tube right side out with a turning tool or follow the remaining instructions using a length of kitchen string or yarn (longer than the tube) and a blunt darning needle (#18).
4. Thread the needle with the string. Make a large knot at the other end. Poke the needle through the pointed seam allowance and push the needle through the tube.
5. Pull on the string, first poking the seam allowance and knot into the tube.
6. Ease the tube into itself as you pull. Hold that end gently, allowing the fabric to slide into itself. Once it is started, it usually slides easily.
7. Finger press the tube, so the seam is on the bottom. Pressing with the iron, seems to take some of the stretch out of the bias. Trim off the pointed ends of the tube.
8. Align the turned tube with the traced line. Applique the folds, with matching thread, using the Applique or Hidden Stitch.
NOTE: This technique works best with short lengths of stems when both ends are covered. Attempting to join the bias strips causes some lumpiness where the seams meet and difficulty in turning the tubes.
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Circles
There are two ways to make a circular shape in fabric. The easiest is to cut a circle from fabric. If you have made fabric "yo-yo's", it is the same technique.
Circles #1
1. Make a knot in a single thread. With this thread sew a running stitch an 1/8" or so from the edge around the circle.
2. Draw up the thread, tightly. Take a stitch through the gathers. The thread is not removed. Flatten the fabric puff.
3. Place the stitches face down and applique the folds. Pull out any points with the tip of the needle. Try to keep the shape roughly circular.
That technique is fine for very small circles for berries or tiny flower centers, that do not need to be perfectly round.
Circles #2
1. Cut a circle template from heat resistant plastic or an index card.
2. Cut a circle of fabric at least 1/2" larger than the template.
3. Make a knot in a single thread. With this thread sew a running stitch an 1/8" or so from the edge around the fabric circle. Stitch passed the knot a couple of stitches, avoid catching the other stitches. Place the circle template in the center of the fabric circle. Draw up the thread, so the edges of fabric gather over the circle template tightly, but gently.
4. Press the gathered fabric with a hot iron for a few seconds. The fold should hold well enough to remove the template, gather the stitches again. Press. The thread does not need to be removed.
5. Applique the fold with the Applique or Hidden Stitch. If there are any small points, push them under the circle with the tip of the needle.
